Travel Trip Notes

Notes From The Happiest Place On Earth (Part Two)

In this second part of my Copenhagen trip notes, I try to absorb as much Danish culture as possible in five and a half hours, eat a prawn sandwich on a ferry, spend a few fairly underwhelming hours in Sweden, get upgraded, have an amazing lunch and stumble upon a public Lego build. Let’s get Danish!

Kultur Natten

If you’ve read the first part of these trip notes, you’ll have read about Copenhagen’s Night of Culture, an annual event where Copenhagen’s museums, galleries, administrations and other cultural buildings leave their doors open until midnight. You buy an entry badge which gets you in to as many events as you can manage to visit. To give you a feel of what the Night of Culture is all about, here’s a list of what I got up to in the 5.5 hours I was out in the city;

Kalaallit Illuutaat - The Greenlandic House
I went to try some Reindeer soup, but by the time I’d got there, they’d sold out. So I perused the small shop, admired some cartoon artwork in the exhibition and watched a bit of a fashion show, where designer Najannguaq Sværd showed of her latest collection.

Post & Tele Museum
This was great. I happened upon it by chance as I was drawn towards it by the sounds of the Copenhagen Postman Orchestra who were playing outside. Inside, kids were designing their own stamps and blowing bugles, which is what was used to announce the arrival of the post in the early years of Post Danmark (the bugle is still used as the emblem of the service). The regular exhibitions were very interesting.

The Round Tower
I climbed the unique slope up to the top where I enjoyed an exhibition celebrating Danish puppet theatre. I stupidly didn’t wait in the queue to go to the very top where the oldest functioning observatory in Europe is housed. I also popped into the adjoining church.

Copenhagen City Hall
If there was a competition for the grandest city hall in the world, this must surely challenge for the title. It was amazing inside. It seemed every single door was open and people could wander about as they pleased. In the main hall, political parties addressed issues of climate change. One politician approached me and we had a very awkward conversation where she explained her party’s stance on something or other. I didn’t understand, nor care and she clearly knew this and was only being polite in translating what she’d said in Danish. I walked away from the conversation with a ‘Blankocheque’ which obviously I’ll cherish, despite not knowing what it is.

Rådhuspladsen
The city’s main square was home to a big screen which showed a visualisation of where people were within the city according to realtime mobile phone data. Sadly, the image quality was a bit naff and it was practically impossible to distinguish anything from it. Next to the screen was a concert stage.

University Radio Copenhagen
One of the lesser visited events during the Night of Culture was the University Radio station, whose studio was open. I popped in and chatted to a few people about the station. The setup was significantly better than the student radio station I’ve been on.

Christiansborg Palace Chapel
The scene for numerous weddings, baptisms and jubilees for members of the royal family, the architecture really was as astonishing as the programme of events claimed.

Christiansborg Palace
Another open building I chanced upon was Christiansborg Palace. I simply followed a large group of people and found myself in the Royal reception rooms, where the Queen greets foreign dignitaries and politicians. The rooms were just as lavish as Buckingham Palace, which I visited earlier in the year. To protect the floors, all the visitors had to wear orange slippers. I didn’t bother going into the Danish Parliament as the queue was rather long.

Thorvaldsen’s Museum
The most memorable part of the evening was Thorvaldsen’s Museum. Film photographer Peter Klitgaard had atmospherically lit the entire museum while, in the central courtyard, musician Kim Menzer played the digeridoo and then jazz saxophone which, combined with the flames of lit torches, created a mesmerising eeriness.

There was so much more I wanted to see, but I just didn’t have the time, nor a proficient knowledge of the city in order to find things. It was an awesome evening though.

Saturday

1001
Sat on the train to Helsingør in North Zealand. I can’t believe how much leg room there is. Smart train and practically empty which is always a bonus. Today, I am off the find some ugly people in Sweden.

1014
The windows on this train are warped. You can’t look out without seeing double. How pointless is that!?

1235
I’m sat on the ferry, having just eaten a discounted prawn sandwich, making the 15 minute journey across the sound to another new country, Sweden! Exciting, eh? It’s really grey, but I can see both Denmark and Sweden through the murk.

1335
Helsingør in Denmark was ok, but Helsingborg in Sweden is better, which is where I am now. I’m sat on top if the castle keep, about to try and find an old windmill. Below, a noisy demonstration is taking place. The town hall here is stunning!

1444
On the train (which appears to be a Danish train) going south to Lund, often described as Sweden’s answer to Britain’s Oxford. I really liked Helsingborg. Had a pleasant atmosphere.

1501
In Denmark, the trains run on the right, but in Sweden, the trains run on the left. Yeah, you heard me!

1600
Lund was ok. Not brilliant. Pretty much a standard town. The church was impressive though. A couple were getting married when I barged in. Now on the train again, enroute to Malmö, Sweden’s third largest city.

1803
Back on the train, going across the bridge from Sweden to Denmark. Malmö was nice, but again, it didn’t blow me away. I don’t think I’ve done Sweden justice. I’ll have to go back again one day and see if the towns and cities further north are any better. Helsingborg was my favourite of the day. Not everyone in Sweden was good looking, but I’d probably safely say most of them were. Some were amazingly so. I’ve had a mate texting me, trying to persuade me to snap some photos to take back with me. I didn’t think it was quite worth the risk of being arrested. I’m glad I can say I’ve been to Sweden though.

2158
The noise from the air con got too much. I went down to tell the guys on reception and, without any hassle, they moved me to a more expensive, much larger room. Bonus! Here’s hoping for a good nights sleep.

Sunday

1056
Morning all. It was a good nights sleep. Thank god! I needed it. Today, I’m going to be taking it easy. It’s reasonably bright this morning, but there’s still a moderate and chilly breeze. Earlier, it was glouriously sunny and quite warm, but some high cloud has rolled in. I’m currently sat in Churchill Park, named after former British prime minister Winston Churchill. There’s a bust of him just behind me. To finish off the British theme to the area, St Albans church, known locally as the British church, is to my right and looks like it been moved brick by brick from the English countryside. It’s a pleasant spot. Later, I’m going to have a Smørrebrød (Open Sandwich). I can’t believe I’ve been here over two days and I still haven’t had one. Shame on me!

1307
I’ve always had trouble finding restuarants when abroad. I think I find it hard because I’m on my own and feel a little self conscious. During this break, I’ve found it a particular challenge. It’s been hard just finding restaurants, let alone good looking ones. I’ve decided on a very smart looking one in Nyhavn. For DKK139, I’m getting a selection of pickled herring, a chicken and bacon salad, roast beef with remolade, a fillet of plaice and the salad of the day (which could end up being egg and marmite for all I know). Hopefully it’ll be filling and will be a good taste of Danish cuisine which has escaped me so far. Outside, the sun is out again and it’s warm. I’d sit outside, but it seems that’s where all the smokers sit.

1345
My god! That was blinding! The horseradish that came with the beef nearly killed me, but it was worth it.

2153
Just got back from Tivoli Gardens which was a worthwhile experience. I didn’t go on any rides. I just wandered around, enjoying the sounds and the hundreds of thousands of twinkly lights (I’m a big twinkly light fan). On the way back to the hotel, I encountered a communal Lego build. Tables had been laid out and white Lego bricks provided to an eager group of kids and adults. While I stood admiring the craftmanship of some of the towers, I was approached by a group of four American and (i think) Aussie girls wanting their photo taken with the tower around them. Naturally, me being an artist, I ordered them about in order to get the best shot possible. Having taken about four different shots with two seperate cameras, we parted company. Immediately as I turned, I instantly regretted it. I could have hung about and chatted, but I had unthinkingly just said, “see you guys,” turned, and walked off. Idiot! Tomorrow, I’m heading back to Blighty. I’ve still got half a day to fill though. Need to start planning.

Monday

0826
Back to Britain today. Pfft! Not before another wander about though. And I really must have a Smørrebrød. It’s be criminal otherwise. Absolutely dying for a cup of English Breakfast.

1200
There. I’ve had a Smørrebrød. And then I had another one to make up for lost time. I’m in the Magasin du Nord, a large department store just off Strøget (Copenhagen’s famous shopping street), on the top floor is a light and airey cafeteria which is where I got my first taste of Denmark’s favourite lunch. On the first slice of rye bread was two slabs of pate, salad, gherkin, a weird brown sliver of jelly stuff and crispy bacon, while on the other was a fillet of breadded fish (no idea which) with salad, cress and a lovely lemon flavoured remoulade. £9 with a drink. My head says, “HOW MUCH!?” while my stomach goes, “more please!” it really was lovely. Not quite sure what I’m going to do now. I’m going to start heading to the airport at around 2 hours, so I’ve got a few hours to kill. Hmmm.

1522
I’m checked in at Copenhagens very smart airport. So many shops in a very nice atmosphere. Going to get some duty free shopping done and then I’ll do some lounging in the lounge. Amazingly comfortable chairs here.

1618
So, another trip approaches it’s conclusion. I’m currently sat at the gate. The plane has literally just arrived. My ankle is absolutely killing me.

1825
Right, well that’s about it. I’m in the air and we’ve just started a lengthy descent towards Stansted Airport. A much smoother flight this time. It’s been another good trip. I don’t know where I’ll be going next time. Perhaps Norway. You’ll be hardly surprised to learn I’m starving. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading these notes and that you’ll join me on my next trip. Bye for now!

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You can view all of the photos taken during this trip on Flickr.