As is abundantly apparent from reading my trip notes, I consider food to be a major part of the travel experience. Trying new things is what it’s all about. It’s this policy that lead me trying Puffin (with Blueberry sauce) in Iceland.
Hong Kong’s cuisine isn’t as varied or exciting as perhaps Singapore’s, but there are still plenty of new things to try. Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island boasts plenty of outlets where adventurous eaters can feast for next to no money. Ying Heong Yuen was my favourite place and certainly seemed to be the most popular in the area with the locals. The list of food on offer was enormous and rather overwhelming. In short though the menu consisted of the body parts of various animals skewered on sticks and deep-fried. Some of it looked rather grisly, though no doubt delicious. I just ordered randomly and ended up;
Fish Balls with Curry Sauce - Really tasty. The fish taste wasn’t overpowering and the sauce complimented them nicely.
Chocolate Waffle - I fancied something sweet. This was warm, soft, light and crunchy on the outside.
Coconut Milk Sago - I never envisaged I would end up favouring the drink of a meal, but in this case I did. Small balls of tapioca mixed with a thin, milky coconut juice. Beautiful.
In which I take a 25 minute cable car ride to the beautiful Po Lin Monastery where I soak in the atmosphere and try Snow Fungus Cake.
15 April 2011 - 1155 Hong Kong
Currently sat inside the Po Lin Buddhist Monastery. It’s all rather nice. Very atmospherically Chinese. Lots of Chinese architecture and signs. Makes for great photos. It took 25 minutes to get here via cablecar. Longest cable car ride I’ve ever been on. I got a great view of the airport as we sailed along.
There’s a lovely smell of incense permeating the air. In half an hour, I’m heading for the monastery restaurant for a vegetarian meal. Exciting.
1230
I had good reason to be excited. I was served a soup and tea to start with, then after a few minutes, a saucepan (an actual saucepan) of rice arrived with two plates of vegetables and a third plate of spring rolls. Really enjoyed the experience.
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Now for cake. Coconut Lotus Sago Cake, Mango Sweet Agar-Agar and Snow fungus Cake. Mmmm.
1246
Gurrghh! Too much cake. Really good though. I particularly enjoyed the Snow Fungus cake. It was like mushroom flavoured jelly.
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And that was my visit to Ngong Ping. I’m writing this so I don’t have to make eye contact with the member of staff employed to take photos of everyone. Why do they insist on doing this? They’re terrible photos. Off to a goldfish market when I get back to the city.
In which I take in the sulphurous air, cascade down the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall and regain my appetite.
7 April 2011 - 1120 Rotorua, New Zealand
Just had the best sandwich of the trip. A delicious pastrami, Swiss cheese, salad and gherkin sandwich on incredible seedy brown brown. I’ll be going back there again. Yummers! I’m eating early as I’m getting picked up to go White water rafting at 12. Better get my trunks on!
1152
God it really does stink here. It’s not like Iceland where there was a thin (though noticeable) whisper of sulphur in the air and water. Here, it’s pungent. A thick, eggy smack in the chops the second you go outside. It’s the richest egg smell I’ve ever smelt. Imagine an egg, then wrap it in another egg and then dip it in oil of egg and you might come close to the eggness. Man, it smells like egg here! Like I’m wearing a boiled egg on my upper lip. Like I’ve bathed in egg mayonnaise. Like I’m wearing a shirt made out of egg.
1555
Got back a short time ago from White water rafting down a 7m waterfall, the highest commercially rafted waterfall IN THE WORLD. Made a tit of myself by misinterpreting an instruction and then jumping out of the boat into the rapids. The guy wanted me to sit on the other side of the boat but he used the word ‘jump’. So I jumped. Anyway, great fun, though much more of a workout than I expected and hauling the boat up a hill on my head after an hour of rafting wasn’t fun at all. Can’t see me wanting to do it again, but I’m very very glad I did it today.
1851
Just had my first decent square meal in ages. And in a pub no less. Good old fish and chips! Three fillets of fresh fish in beer batter and good “chip shop” chips, followed by an enormous creme brûlée with cream and toffee ice cream. I’ve been struggling to eat well in New Zealand, a mixture of poor quality food and a mysterious loss of appetite. but tonight, both those things were shunted to the sideline. And to top it off, I was sat square in front of a tv showing French Top 14 rugby.
It’s been a good day. In about 35 minutes, I’m meeting up with a Ukrainian dude I met at the rafting and we’re going climbing at the climbing centre in the basement of the hostel.
You’ve heard of the saying, “When in Rome,” right? Well, when I was in Rome recently, I decided to eat like the Romans. When I say Rome of course, I mean Reykjavík and when I say Romans, I mean Icelandic people. It sounds odd I know, but it’s a metaphor, so you have to… ahhh, I can’t be bothered to explain it.
On my first night in Reykjavík, I decided to splash out on some fine-dining Icelandic cuisine. I couldn’t decide whether to go for the lamb, or the puffin, or the seafood, so I went for the whole lot, Tapas-style. My “Icelandic Feast” consisted of the following;
Smoked Puffin with Blueberry “Brennivín” Sauce
When I tell people I’ve eaten Puffin, I’ve mostly been met with frowns. But they don’t know how good it tastes. The shredded Puffin I had was dense and meaty. The main flavour was quite fishy but it was also quite gamey. I actually mistook the sauce for a plum sauce, such was the similarity. It complemented the puffin perfectly. I could have eaten more of it, but alas, I only had a sampler.
Baked Lobster Tails in Garlic Butter
Man, these were good! They came to the table fizzing in the garlic oil. The meat was surprisingly delicate and tasted sumptuous. I could have eaten about 20 of them.
Grilled Icelandic Lamb Samfaina
No, I don’t know what Samfaina is either. All I know is it’s good. I’ve never had lamb before (crazy, huh?), so I approached this with caution. I needn’t have. It was great! The meat was tough, but juicy and chewy. I really enjoyed it. I can’t say I’ll be eating it more often though. I’m just not a red meat kind-of guy.
Icelandic Sea Trout with Red Pepper Salsa
The fish was deliciously light and moist. It was a lot like salmon. The skin was cooked to perfection and added a nice crunch. I even liked the pepper salsa, even though I’m not a great fan of pepper.
Pan-Fried Monkfish with Lobster Sauce
A lovely, dense fillet of fish with a delicate, meaty flavour. The sauce was rich and creamy.
Minke Whale with Cranberry Sauce
Hmmmm. Nah. I really couldn’t bring myself to eat this. I didn’t even arrive at the table. I made an early substitution for;
Pan fried Salt Fish with Mashed Sweet Potato
What a choice! This was easily my favourite dish. I could have quite happily eaten a full serving of the mash on it’s own. It was so creamy and sweet! The salt fish was barely cooked (in a good way). It was so moist, so dense, so incredibly delicious. I loved it.
Chocolate Cake with a Berry Compote and Fresh Whipped Cream
I had just enough rook for pudding, And thank goodness I did, for it was worth making room for. Like most of the main courses, the cake was very dense. There’s no other word to describe it. It was like a thick slice of tort. It also came with a strawberry, another weird berry and a swirl of delicious, rich custard. Awesome!
The meal was served with an entire loaf of sliced bread with masses of Spanish-style Tapanades and a jug of water. It was also served with a shot of Brennivín, also known as svarti dauði (“black death”). The name literally translates in English as ‘burning wine’. And boy, did it burn! I wanted to cough after downing it, but couldn’t muster the energy to do so, such was the burning, so instead I noisily exhaled. Seriously, it nearly killed me. Never again!
Was the whole meal worth £30. Just. I obviously would have liked it to have been cheaper, but I went knowing it was that much and happily paid up at the end of the meal. The food was cooked to perfection and beautifully presented. Service was friendly, professional and very quick. The atmosphere in the restaurant was moody and unique. It was an experience I’m glad I had. And that’s what life is all about, right? So £30 is a drop in the ocean.
Next time you’re in Reykjavík, eat out at Tapas Barinn. It’s a great way to celebrate your arrival in one of the world’s coolest places.
Reykjavík is a great place to eat. Gone are the days when absolutely everything was ludicrously expensive. Now, you can sample Icelandic cuisine and world cuisine with an Icelandic twist without a second mortgage. Here’s where I chose to eat.
Saegreifinn - The Sea Baron
A great little place that’s full of character. To be found on the dock of the Old Harbour, Saegreifinn sells reasonably priced, fresh seafood. They’re best known for their Lobster Soup served with bread (around Kr1000 / £5.00) and their fish skewers (around Kr 1800 / £9.00) which you can select from the open fridges. Once you’ve ordered, take a seat on a barrel at one of the long communal tables, eavesdrop on the conversation and gaze around at the clutter of nautical decorations. Within a few minutes, your food will be brought to you. Saegreifinn is not only popular with tourists, but popular with locals who come in and buy large packs of dried fish fillets. This isn’t the best cuisine in town, but it’s fresh, tasty, reasonably priced and served in a very unique atmosphere. Its well worth a visit.
Eldsmidjan
This is a great little place for travellers on a budget or those that know a good pizza when they eat it. Eldsmidjan is just outside the city centre in a residential area. It’s a five minute walk away from Hotel Leifur Ericsson. The first thing you notice as you walk in is the heat and wonderful smell from the wood burning oven. The kitchen in front of you is a hive of activity. On the floor is a pile of logs waiting to be tossed into the fire. If you’re taking away, order at the counter at street level. Or, if you want to eat in, go straight upstairs and ask for a table. They make pizzas in three different sizes. A large 16” pizza will set you back around Kr1500-Kr2000 / £7.50-£10.00 , an amazing deal in this expensive city. As a part-Italian, I know an authentic, fresh pizza when I taste it. These were spot on! Don’t forget, as with a lot of Icelandic restaurants, once you’re done, go to the counter (downstairs) to settle the bill. It’s hard to have a bad culinary experience in Reykjavik and Eldsmidjan holds this statement true, but what it also proves is that not everything in Reykjavik is expensive.
Tapas Barinn
If you’re going to splurge on a meal while in Reykjavik (and why not, you only live once) make sure its at Tapas Barinn. Tucked away in the city centre, behind a small wooden door, you’ll find this dark, atmospherically lit, lively restaurant. Indecisive types might have trouble choosing from the menu here; there are over 60 different tapas dishes to try. Prices vary depending on the dish, but are typically around Kr1000 / £5.00. This isn’t particularly great value for what you get. It’s much better value to order one of the set menus although even here, you should expect to pay around Kr5800 / £30.00. Although expensive, I found this to be only slightly over what I’d typically want to pay for such a meal. Prices aside, the food is lovingly crafted, fresh, exciting and delicious. I ordered the Icelandic Feast; six tapas and a desert. This set menu included Whale meat, but I asked whether I could substitute it for something else and my attentive and friendly waitress said, “Of course,” so there’s no need to worry if you’re tempted by a set menu but one or two of the tapas don’t appeal. My favourite tapas was the Puffin with Blueberry sauce and the Saltfish with Sweet Potato Mash, which was the dish I choose in place of the Whale. The chocolate cake desert was a dense and delicious chunk of loveliness. In all, I had a great evening. The food was amazing, the service fast and friendly and the atmosphere fun. Go on, give it a go.
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
You can’t go to Reykjavík and not grab a hot dog from “Europe’s best hot dog stand”. I mean it! Even Bill Clinton sampled one of this delicious snacks when he was last in town. Their sausages are made from a combination of lamb, beef and pork and only the good bits of meat are used. A hot dog costs 280 ISK (about £1.50) and condiments include ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish. I ate four “with everything” in two days. They were that good! For the price, they can’t be beat. And that’s not even mentioning the taste. Perfect for a lunchtime snack, or order five at once for a delicious evening meal.
In this second part of my Copenhagen trip notes, I try to absorb as much Danish culture as possible in five and a half hours, eat a prawn sandwich on a ferry, spend a few fairly underwhelming hours in Sweden, get upgraded, have an amazing lunch and stumble upon a public Lego build. Let’s get Danish!
Kultur Natten
If you’ve read the first part of these trip notes, you’ll have read about Copenhagen’s Night of Culture, an annual event where Copenhagen’s museums, galleries, administrations and other cultural buildings leave their doors open until midnight. You buy an entry badge which gets you in to as many events as you can manage to visit. To give you a feel of what the Night of Culture is all about, here’s a list of what I got up to in the 5.5 hours I was out in the city;
Kalaallit Illuutaat - The Greenlandic House
I went to try some Reindeer soup, but by the time I’d got there, they’d sold out. So I perused the small shop, admired some cartoon artwork in the exhibition and watched a bit of a fashion show, where designer Najannguaq Sværd showed of her latest collection.
Post & Tele Museum
This was great. I happened upon it by chance as I was drawn towards it by the sounds of the Copenhagen Postman Orchestra who were playing outside. Inside, kids were designing their own stamps and blowing bugles, which is what was used to announce the arrival of the post in the early years of Post Danmark (the bugle is still used as the emblem of the service). The regular exhibitions were very interesting.
The Round Tower
I climbed the unique slope up to the top where I enjoyed an exhibition celebrating Danish puppet theatre. I stupidly didn’t wait in the queue to go to the very top where the oldest functioning observatory in Europe is housed. I also popped into the adjoining church.
Copenhagen City Hall
If there was a competition for the grandest city hall in the world, this must surely challenge for the title. It was amazing inside. It seemed every single door was open and people could wander about as they pleased. In the main hall, political parties addressed issues of climate change. One politician approached me and we had a very awkward conversation where she explained her party’s stance on something or other. I didn’t understand, nor care and she clearly knew this and was only being polite in translating what she’d said in Danish. I walked away from the conversation with a ‘Blankocheque’ which obviously I’ll cherish, despite not knowing what it is.
Rådhuspladsen
The city’s main square was home to a big screen which showed a visualisation of where people were within the city according to realtime mobile phone data. Sadly, the image quality was a bit naff and it was practically impossible to distinguish anything from it. Next to the screen was a concert stage.
University Radio Copenhagen
One of the lesser visited events during the Night of Culture was the University Radio station, whose studio was open. I popped in and chatted to a few people about the station. The setup was significantly better than the student radio station I’ve been on.
Christiansborg Palace Chapel
The scene for numerous weddings, baptisms and jubilees for members of the royal family, the architecture really was as astonishing as the programme of events claimed.
Christiansborg Palace
Another open building I chanced upon was Christiansborg Palace. I simply followed a large group of people and found myself in the Royal reception rooms, where the Queen greets foreign dignitaries and politicians. The rooms were just as lavish as Buckingham Palace, which I visited earlier in the year. To protect the floors, all the visitors had to wear orange slippers. I didn’t bother going into the Danish Parliament as the queue was rather long.
Thorvaldsen’s Museum
The most memorable part of the evening was Thorvaldsen’s Museum. Film photographer Peter Klitgaard had atmospherically lit the entire museum while, in the central courtyard, musician Kim Menzer played the digeridoo and then jazz saxophone which, combined with the flames of lit torches, created a mesmerising eeriness. There was so much more I wanted to see, but I just didn’t have the time, nor a proficient knowledge of the city in order to find things. It was an awesome evening though.
Saturday
1001
Sat on the train to Helsingør in North Zealand. I can’t believe how much leg room there is. Smart train and practically empty which is always a bonus. Today, I am off the find some ugly people in Sweden.
1014
The windows on this train are warped. You can’t look out without seeing double. How pointless is that!?
1235
I’m sat on the ferry, having just eaten a discounted prawn sandwich, making the 15 minute journey across the sound to another new country, Sweden! Exciting, eh? It’s really grey, but I can see both Denmark and Sweden through the murk.
1335
Helsingør in Denmark was ok, but Helsingborg in Sweden is better, which is where I am now. I’m sat on top if the castle keep, about to try and find an old windmill. Below, a noisy demonstration is taking place. The town hall here is stunning!
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On the train (which appears to be a Danish train) going south to Lund, often described as Sweden’s answer to Britain’s Oxford. I really liked Helsingborg. Had a pleasant atmosphere.
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In Denmark, the trains run on the right, but in Sweden, the trains run on the left. Yeah, you heard me!
1600
Lund was ok. Not brilliant. Pretty much a standard town. The church was impressive though. A couple were getting married when I barged in. Now on the train again, enroute to Malmö, Sweden’s third largest city.
1803
Back on the train, going across the bridge from Sweden to Denmark. Malmö was nice, but again, it didn’t blow me away. I don’t think I’ve done Sweden justice. I’ll have to go back again one day and see if the towns and cities further north are any better. Helsingborg was my favourite of the day. Not everyone in Sweden was good looking, but I’d probably safely say most of them were. Some were amazingly so. I’ve had a mate texting me, trying to persuade me to snap some photos to take back with me. I didn’t think it was quite worth the risk of being arrested. I’m glad I can say I’ve been to Sweden though.
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The noise from the air con got too much. I went down to tell the guys on reception and, without any hassle, they moved me to a more expensive, much larger room. Bonus! Here’s hoping for a good nights sleep.
Sunday
1056
Morning all. It was a good nights sleep. Thank god! I needed it. Today, I’m going to be taking it easy. It’s reasonably bright this morning, but there’s still a moderate and chilly breeze. Earlier, it was glouriously sunny and quite warm, but some high cloud has rolled in. I’m currently sat in Churchill Park, named after former British prime minister Winston Churchill. There’s a bust of him just behind me. To finish off the British theme to the area, St Albans church, known locally as the British church, is to my right and looks like it been moved brick by brick from the English countryside. It’s a pleasant spot. Later, I’m going to have a Smørrebrød (Open Sandwich). I can’t believe I’ve been here over two days and I still haven’t had one. Shame on me!
1307
I’ve always had trouble finding restaurants when abroad. I think I find it hard because I’m on my own and feel a little self conscious. During this break, I’ve found it a particular challenge. It’s been hard just finding restaurants, let alone good looking ones. I’ve decided on a very smart looking one in Nyhavn. For DKK139, I’m getting a selection of pickled herring, a chicken and bacon salad, roast beef with remolade, a fillet of plaice and the salad of the day (which could end up being egg and marmite for all I know). Hopefully it’ll be filling and will be a good taste of Danish cuisine which has escaped me so far. Outside, the sun is out again and it’s warm. I’d sit outside, but it seems that’s where all the smokers sit.
1345
My god! That was blinding! The horseradish that came with the beef nearly killed me, but it was worth it.
2153
Just got back from Tivoli Gardens which was a worthwhile experience. I didn’t go on any rides. I just wandered around, enjoying the sounds and the hundreds of thousands of twinkly lights (I’m a big twinkly light fan). On the way back to the hotel, I encountered a communal Lego build. Tables had been laid out and white Lego bricks provided to an eager group of kids and adults. While I stood admiring the craftmanship of some of the towers, I was approached by a group of four American and (i think) Aussie girls wanting their photo taken with the tower around them. Naturally, me being an artist, I ordered them about in order to get the best shot possible. Having taken about four different shots with two seperate cameras, we parted company. Immediately as I turned, I instantly regretted it. I could have hung about and chatted, but I had unthinkingly just said, “see you guys,” turned, and walked off. Idiot! Tomorrow, I’m heading back to Blighty. I’ve still got half a day to fill though. Need to start planning.
Monday
0826
Back to Britain today. Pfft! Not before another wander about though. And I really must have a Smørrebrød. It’s be criminal otherwise. Absolutely dying for a cup of English Breakfast.
1200
There. I’ve had a Smørrebrød. And then I had another one to make up for lost time. I’m in the Magasin du Nord, a large department store just off Strøget (Copenhagen’s famous shopping street), on the top floor is a light and airey cafeteria which is where I got my first taste of Denmark’s favourite lunch. On the first slice of rye bread was two slabs of pate, salad, gherkin, a weird brown sliver of jelly stuff and crispy bacon, while on the other was a fillet of breadded fish (no idea which) with salad, cress and a lovely lemon flavoured remoulade. £9 with a drink. My head says, “HOW MUCH!?” while my stomach goes, “more please!” it really was lovely. Not quite sure what I’m going to do now. I’m going to start heading to the airport at around 2 hours, so I’ve got a few hours to kill. Hmmm.
1522
I’m checked in at Copenhagens very smart airport. So many shops in a very nice atmosphere. Going to get some duty free shopping done and then I’ll do some lounging in the lounge. Amazingly comfortable chairs here.
1618
So, another trip approaches it’s conclusion. I’m currently sat at the gate. The plane has literally just arrived. My ankle is absolutely killing me.
1825
Right, well that’s about it. I’m in the air and we’ve just started a lengthy descent towards Stansted Airport. A much smoother flight this time. It’s been another good trip. I don’t know where I’ll be going next time. Perhaps Norway. You’ll be hardly surprised to learn I’m starving. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading these notes and that you’ll join me on my next trip. Bye for now!
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You can view all of the photos taken during this trip on Flickr.
