Review: YHA Sydney Harbour
A perfectly located five star hostel that generally delivers on facilities but misses in terms of value.
Finding somewhere to stay in Sydney on a budget is a pain. Generally prices are high, so the aim is finding somewhere that offers value rather than finding somewhere cheap. I’m not really much of a hostel guy, but on my visit to Australia, my budget dictated that I ought to become one. So, I decided on staying at YHA Sydney Harbour. Described as a 5 star hostel, would it offer a hosteling rookie the comforts of a hotel with the value of a hostel?
The Good
- Brilliant location. Probably couldn’t be better actually. On a quiet street in the historic (for Australia) Rocks area. Plenty of smart places to eat and drink nearby and a short walk from the harbour bridge, the opera house and the main drag, George Street.
- Purpose built and still fairly new. The place has a tangible modern and contemporary feel.
- Unbeatable rooftop terrace with incredible views of the opera house, harbour bridge and city centre.
- Rooms and public areas are very clean and well kept.
- Comfortable TV room with plenty of channels available. DVDs available to hire from reception.
- Night’s out, barbecues and other events organised every day. All seemed good value.
- All rooms and dorms have ensuite bathrooms. Nice fittings and locking doors.
- Good security. Public doors are locked at night and dorms are accessed via key card.
- Large, well-equipped kitchen. One of the fridges may still contain a carton of milk I bought. You’re welcome Australia!
- Nicely furnished and comfortable common area with plenty of computers to use.
- Reasonably priced laundry room facilities.
- Dorms beds have reading lights and power sockets. Lockers have power sockets inside too. Very handy.
The Bad
- Horribly expensive! You pay for the location and rooftop terrace. You may as well pay a little extra and get your own private room elsewhere.
- Bored, cheerless staff. They were generally helpful, but begrudgingly so.
- Rooftop terrace is locked at 2200 each night. Rather early.
- Not very social. Despite a daily event being organised by staff, no one really spoke to one another. Perhaps the size of the place or the decor didn’t lend itself to being particularly sociable.
- Not particularly cosy or welcoming. Sparse, basic decor.
- Expensive internet. There were plenty of computers available and also wifi but it wasn’t cheap. This is perhaps due to Australia not being as wired up as the rest of the world.
- Expensive breakfast. I suppose they didn’t have to offer breakfasts, but they also didn’t have to charge an arm and a leg for it.
- In-room temperature is controlled by reception, by key card activation and whether the window is opened. Rooms are either too hot or to cold. Never spot on.
- Similarly, the temperature in the tv room is also controlled by reception. If you want the air-con on, you have to walk down 2 floors to get it sorted. Ridiculous.
- Hardly any seats on the roof terrace.
- Announcements made over building-wide public address system regarding forthcoming events lended an unprofessional and holiday camp feel to the place.
- Snoring! Oh, the dreaded snoring!
- Sheets and bankets! It’s 2011, Australia! The rest of the world are using duvets. Join us, please!
- Despite paying a fortune, you still have to strip your own beds and take the sheets down to reception on departure. Pretty poor.
The Verdict
It’s difficult summing up YHA Sydney Harbour without getting tangled up with my impressions of Sydney and hosteling in general (both rather poor). There were elements of the hostel I really, really liked. The rooftop terrace for example could quite possibly be one of the best in the world, offering stunning views of the harbour and the city centre. The location was perfect, a short walk from everything Sydney has to offer (that is to say, not very much) while the rooms, bathrooms and public areas were functional, clean and modern.
The claim is that this is a 5 star hostel. In global terms, if you average everything out, it probably is. It’s the fact you end up paying for the terrace and the location that just sours the deal for me. I expected more for my money. Throw in some wifi at least!
If you can’t quite afford your own room in Sydney but you don’t want to stay in a flea pit, YHA Sydney Harbour is probably your best hostel option in the city centre. While, in my opinion, you don’t get good value for money, at least you’re assured of somewhere clean and secure to sleep and you get that amazing view. Steer well clear of the private double rooms. They’re nothing special and are definitely not worth your money. Look elsewhere.
A Day In The Blue Mountains
Today, I’ve been reliving my day in Australia’s Blue Mountains. Leading up to this day, I had spent a grey and rainy week in Sydney. But when I decided to head west along CityRail’s Blue Mountains Line to the small town of Katoomba, the sun shone brightly making the already incredible scenery sparkle.
In this video, I take in the impossibly beautiful rainforest-filled gorge, then, after descending the Giant’s Staircase, I walk through the rainforest to the cable car station that takes me back up to the top of gorge again.
Look out for a brief appearance by a Superb Lyrebird. I’ll always remember my first encounter with this extraordinary species on a BBC nature documentary. It’s ability to mimic any sound almost 100% accurately amazed me. The thought of seeing one in the wild had never crossed my mind, let alone on the day I found myself in the temperate rainforest of the Blue Mountains. But one scuttled out in front of me that day and I have a tiny fragment of that encounter on video. Thankfully, I kept my composure, despite an overwhelming urge to dance around on the spot, to keep the camera still and even to pan away in an artistic fashion.
A beautiful ecosystem coupled with a remarkable ornithological experience made for a truly unforgettable day.
In which I’m very much outnumbered by old people as I arrive in country number 3, New Zealand.
27 March 2011 - 0834 Sydney, Australia
Sydney airport is nice, but enough already with the audible announcements! Every frigging minute there’s a “final call”. Every other airport in the world has dispensed with the audio announcements. It’s time to do the same Sydney. It’s annoying!
In other news, Gate 25 for QF55 is rammed full of old people. The number of people around my age is in single figures.
2301 Auckland, New Zealand
After an arduous and tedious customs procedure where I was asked multiple questions, I’m now in New Zealand. And wow, is my host pulling out the stops!!! I’m in Leigh in what is officially still the City of Auckland but really isn’t. We’re spending the night at Iain’s holiday home. His intention is to show me the Northland Region before heading back to Auckland at the weekend. He’s picked me up from the airport, he’s driven me around & he’s bought me an amazing dinner of enormous New Zealand Green-lipped Mussels. He’s already been an exceptional host. But with plans including going to see Stone Temple Pilots live in concert, a birthday party and live rugby, I really have won the travel lottery. It’s going to be an exciting week!
Outside, the wind is blowing in off of the Pacific Ocean, buffeting the single pane window frames. A strangely comforting sound.
Anyway, best get some sleep. A busy day awaits.
In which I visit the beautiful and amazing Blue Mountains and have a surprising and jaw-dropping ornithological encounter.
22 March 2011 - 0935 Sydney, Australia
So finally, I’m off to Katoomba and the Blue Mountains. Well, not right now I’m not. I’m waiting at platform 5 of Central Station for the departure of my train. The return ticket cost an unbelievable $7.60, a total bargain in expensive Sydney. The train is already waiting in front of me, doors open expectantly. It’s an ageing corrugated metal affair, the sort you’d expect to see on New York’s subway. Plenty of character, though if the seats are anything like those on the last train from Circular Quay to here, I’m in for an uncomfortable 2 hour ride.
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Seats a way better. This is the sort of train-ing I like. Plenty of character inside too. Driver is doing pre-journey checks on the outside of the train. Despite rolling stock on opposite platforms moving about, he’s strolling along the side of the train opening panels and looking at whatever’s inside. Wouldn’t get that in Britain.
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Forget to mention, this is a double-decker train. I’m on the lower deck, facing forward and on the left as the Lonely Planet guide to Sydney suggests. Amazing views to be had from this position apparently.
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Wow! This passenger just came on and did something amazing! He reversed the facing direction the seat he wanted. With a quick pull on a handle, he could sit down and face the direction of travel. Ace!!!!
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Wow! Finally Australia pulls out all the stops. I’ve arrived at Echo Point to stunning views. I then descended the Giant’s Stairway, 900 precarious steps clinging to side of the gorge. Water drips from the rocks and down the narrow, steep stairs. The steps eventually led me to a category 1 rainforest dating back to the Jurassic period. During the 2km walk, I encountered muddy tracks, streams, and the majestic Katoomba Falls, a roaring torrent 500m high. Then, into Scenic World, the Disneyland version of the rainforest with well-constructed boardwalks and species markers and information and displays on the mining history of the region. Then, the ascent of the gorge by Swiss built cablecar.
But way above all that was being able to see Superb Lyrebird in the wild. In fact, I saw two Lyrebird in the wild. Beautiful, nimble creatures with a unrivalled and staggering vocal range, able to mimic any sound 100% accurately. I stared open mouthed when Sir David Attenborough went to see Lyrebird on one of his BBC natural history shows, but to unexpectedly happen open one in the wild, scratching about in the trees was extraordinary and something I’ll never forget.
As I write this, a Red Wattlebird has just landed in the seat next to mine. Seems my status as ‘friend of birds’ has been renewed.
Through The Suburbs
A video I shot whilst on the train from Sydney Central to Katoomba, the hub of the Blue Mountains.
In which I cough up for a room upgrade and sum up my week in Australia.
21 March 2011 - 1038 Sydney, Australia
Yeah, not going to Blue Mountains today. The weather is atrocious. I’ll go tomorrow. Today might well be another chill-out day. Might head to the Australian Museum for 2pm when there’s a free tour on. That said, I find museums boring on the whole so I might not.
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I’ve upgraded to a private room this morning. Sick of staying in dorms. The Korean guy sleeping in the bunk above mine last night snored. It sounded like he was clearing out a drain. The Argentinian guy in the other bunk was nice though. In the tv room now talking to an Italian guy who’s learning English.
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After a lovely walk in the Botanic Gardens, I’m now back at the hostel and in a room of my own. And I’m loving it. The bed is massive. I’m going to like it in here the next two nights. All my stuff is spread across the floor as I savour the opportunity to sort everything out. I’m not anti social but I’m much happier in a room of my own.
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With just one full day left in Australia, now’s perhaps a good time to have a mind splurge about Sydney. Here goes;
- I really like the fact the cab drivers all wear uniforms here. It’s a nice touch.
- If you want a good pizza while in town, go to The Australian in The Rocks area.
- Sydney is quite a dull city in global terms. It’s nice and all but there’s nothing special here. Nothing amazing. The Harbour Bridge and Opera House aren’t particularly remarkable feats of architecture or engineering. They pose well for photos, but I think the photos are good enough. There’s not much need to come to Sydney to see them for real. Nothing gets added to the visual experience.
- Australians are nice, friendly people. Apart from the staff behind the desk at YHA Sydney Harbour who are all universally and eternally grumpy, it’s easy to strike up a conversation with them. That said, of all the conversations I’ve had with Australians, references to us “poms” and the differences between Brits and Aussies has come up a lot. For Brits, the friendly rivalry between Australia and Britain barely registers on the importance scale (we’re more concerned with the French and Germans) but for Aussies, it seems to be very important. Dare I say, there seems to be a deep rooted inferiority complex at play. and that’s not me being a flippant pom, that’s my genuine assessment.
- Australia’s lack of history is notable for this European, though I can’t blame Australia for that. No, we can blame the Brits for not colonising the place sooner.
- The streets of Sydney are almost completely non-descript. I can’t think of a single word to describe them.
- Royal Botanic Gardens are wonderful. I dare say they challenge Jardin du Luxemborg in Paris for the top spot in my favourite gardens chart. So much exotic wildlife and a massive array of well kept and labelled plants from all over the world.
- Everything is horribly expensive in Sydney. The exchange rate from British Pound Sterling to Aussie Dollars is terrible. A sandwich costs about £5 on it’s own.
- Aussies have a very distinctive look. They all look Australian. I know, sounds obvious, but I know what I mean.
- Food here is poor, perhaps worse than the food in the UK. Apart from the pizzas at The Australian, I’ve not eaten very well.
- Manly is nice but no where near as good as people make out.
- Of all the places in the world I’d move to, Sydney would be rock bottom of my list. I really, really, really don’t see why people would want to live here (apart from the high wages). It’s not for me.
In conclusion, Sydney is dull. It’s been a nice week, but nothing has made me say, “wow!” Nothing! I guess we in Europe are spoilt in terms of interesting cities full of beautiful buildings and amazing sights and delicious food and quirky people. Sydney falls to the wayside by a long, long way. In fact, there is absolutely no comparison.
Off to the Blue Mountains tomorrow. I think. No, it’s definitely happening. Well, we’ll see.
In which I go to see some Super Rugby, watch as YouTube splashes some colour onto the Opera House and I encounter a disgusting, yet loving Korean.
20 March 2011 - 1141 Sydney, Australia
A day of doing absolutely nothing is on the cards. My endurance has been on the wane these past few days so I need a day to recover. The rugby last night was a good excursion. The standard of rugby was very poor but it was only AU$20 to see Super Rugby so it was worth it. I thought I’d be able to walk to the stadium from the hostel but with ten minutes to go before kick off, I hailed a cab to take me the rest of the way. Luckily the city lays on free non-stopping buses back to the centre after the match so the whole evening didn’t cost me too much.
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Two new guys in the dorms; a guy from Argentina whose mind appeared to be frazzled by jet lag and a Korean whose first action was to head to the bathroom where he nosily hacked up and when asked how long he intended on staying in Sydney, he replied by telling me with palpable sincerity that he loved me. Brilliant stuff.
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I’ve really enjoyed today! I’ve not anything! Seems killing time in a foreign country is much more fun than killing time back at home. I’ve had a good meal today of Chicken Satay and a lovely dressed salad (by good I also mean expensive). Pucker tucker. Now just listening to some music before heading out to the harbour. Seems YouTube is putting on a light display projected onto the opera house to the music of a full symphony orchestra playing inside. Should be good. Outside right now, the flying foxes have just woken up and are looking for their first meal.
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The YouTube music and light show was good. Perhaps not as exciting as I had imagined but it was nice to see the opera house illuminated in colourful moving patterns. Normally, it’s barely even lit so I feel lucky to have seen it. That said, the weather was terrible. Blowing a gale, raining horizontally, the sea whipping up a frenzy. It was pretty bracing stuff. Autumn is truly upon the southern hemisphere.
Tomorrow, I leave the city altogether for the Blue Mountains. Time perhaps to dig out a sweater.
In which I go to Manly Beach in the rain and am forced to enjoy my own company.
19 March 2011 - 1415 Sydney, Australia
I’m chugging my way through Sydney Harbour onboard the world famous Manly Ferry after a half day in Manly, a nice little beach suburb of Sydney. It was only when I entered the housing estates that I got a true sense of Australia. It looked like the set of Neighbours. Onwards I walked to the Sydney Harbour National Park where I saw snakes, massive spiders and Kookaburras. The ferry is now pulling onto Circular Quay alongside the Opera House. I’m now gonna chill at the hostel for a bit before heading out again to watch some live rugby. Very wet today. Hasn’t really stopped raining.
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God, the folks in my dorm room are an unsociable lot! Just asked whether any of them wanted to grab a pizza and none of them were hungry. So I’m at another bar on my own waiting for a tandoori pizza to arrive. Lively place called The Australian. What I should remember is that people really don’t notice other people sitting and eating on their own. It’s not weird. Is it? Generally speaking, the hostel hasn’t been great for meeting people. I just spent the past 30 minutes wandering around aimlessly hoping a conversation might start up. None did. Everyone in the hostel is either with someone else or strange looking. The new guy that’s just walked into my dorm is like someone out of Happy Days. Weird accent, apparently Australian, with bizarre mannerisms. Lucky I came into this pub when I did. Really rammed now. Where’s my pizza???
Getting Wet On Manly Beach
Think of Sydney and sunshine and beaches spring to mind. Well, we have the beach, but the sunshine is considerably lacking.
